Getting Started Knitting Socks
I love handknit socks (obviously) and almost always have at least one on the needles (sometimes the same one, for a very long time!). And I wear handknit socks nearly every single day. Knitting socks isn’t difficult, but getting started can be daunting: there are many ways to knit a sock, and so a host of interrelated decisions you have to make to begin your first pair. There’s no one right way to knit a sock, and if there’s a bit of your first sock you don’t like knitting, well, chances are, you can do it a different way next time around!
I’ve put together this little getting started guide to celebrate Make Socks Mend Socks 2024; it is by no means an exhaustive manual of sock knitting. But it’ll sign post some of the big decisions (I mean, big in relative terms; we are talking socks, after all!) you need to make to get started and point you towards some patterns and resources that will help you get going. Questions? Something you think I’ve missed or want to know? Email me at fiberandsustenance@gmail.com! And I will update this document as the year goes on :)
Yarn
There’s a wonderful and wide world of sock yarn, from beautiful hand-dyed skeins, to ones that knit up in delicious stripes, to brightly patterned commercial sock yarns. If you’re knitting socks you plan to wear anywhere besides bed, you’ll want a somewhat sturdy yarn. There are many factors that make a yarn “good” for socks (I won’t go down this rabbit hole, or we’ll be deciding on your yarn all day), but the most common is blending a bit of nylon with wool. (If nylon’s not your jam, you can also seek out nylon-free sock wool).
The most common sock yarn weight is fingering/4ply, which knits up into a sock that, while certainly thicker than one bought in a shop, can usually still fit in a pair of sneakers or boots.
You can also find heavier weight sock yarns, including 6-ply/sport or DK yarns designed specifically for socks. This will give you a thicker sock, nice for hiking boots or to wear as cozy house socks.
Working with a slightly heavier sock yarn — which means bigger needles and bigger stitches — can make it easier to see what’s going on as you knit your first sock. But lots of people (including me) knit their first socks using s fingering weight/4ply sock yarn, so really, go with what you think you’ll enjoy knitting with or wearing the most.
The easiest way to pick a sock yarn (and needles to go with it) will be to visit your local yarn shop, if you’ve got one nearby, and see what jumps out at you!
Needles Needed
Once you’ve picked your yarn, you’ll, of course, be needing needles to go with it, in a size appropriate for the yarn (if you’re not sure, check the label as your starting point). But what kind of needles?
To my mind, getting used to knitting a small circumference is the most awkward bit of sock knitting, and what might initially put a would-be sock knitter off. As with any new skill, it just takes getting used to … and figuring out what method works best for you! Below are the most common options.
DPNs: 4-5 double pointed needles; your sock stitches will be arranged around 3 or 4 needles, with the remaining needle used to work the stitches.
Magic loop: One long circular needle (with a cable length around 32”/80 cm) that’s, er, magically arranged to make it possible to knit a small circumference. This video covers the basics! This is my preferred method.
Short circular: Many knitting needle companies now make circular needles with a very short cable (attached to very short needles) specifically for knitting small circumferences. If you’ve knit in the round before, this will probably feel the simplest method, but you will need either a long circular or DPNs for the heels and toes, and it can take some time to get used to holding the very short needles in a comfortable way (I've still not cracked it!) But this method works for a lot of people!
Two circulars: I don’t see this option talked about tons these days, but it’s how I started knitting socks and, perhaps because of that, I think it has a lot of benefits. Your stitches will be divided between two circular needles, and I think this method feels less awkward, initially, than managing DPNs or the magic loop. It’s also a great method to know if you’d like to eventually knit two socks at the same time. The downside is you’ve got to buy two needles in the same size, so it’s more of an investment. This tutorial will get you started. Tip: If you’re going to knit with two circulars, try to get two slightly different style circulars in the same size (i.e. two different cable lengths, or better yet, two different brand needles). This will make things easier!
What type of needles you use is ultimately going to come down to personal preference; there’s no one size fits all. So pick a method, give it a try, and see how you go. If you hate it, try something different for your next pair. (I would suggest not changing needles after say, sock one, or you could end up with two very differently sized socks — your gauge can really vary between methods; ask me how I know!) If you’ve had previous experience of knitting small circumferences (a sleeve, or a mitten), you might start off with the same method for your first socks.
Cuff Down or Toe Up
The vast majority socks are knitted either starting at the cuff, or beginning at the toe. Again, there’s no one right way, and if you like knitting socks, chances are, you’ll try both methods at some point.
Advantages of cuff down: it’s probably the most common method you’ll find in patterns, you start by knitting a simple tube, and it’s often paired with a heel flap/gusset (more on that below) which many people find fits their feet well.
Advantages of toe up: very easy to try on as you go (although you can try on cuff down too!), you can knit until you run out of yarn, and you’ll not need to pick up any gusset stitches, one of the peskier bits of a heel flap.
Heel Type
Heel flap/gusset: This is the most common heel construction in sock patterns. There are a few technical things to do (turning the heel, a bit of magic!; picking up gusset stitches) but for many people, this makes a really well fitting sock.
Afterthought heel: As the name suggests, a heel you put in place after the fact. A really nice option if you’re knitting with a self patterning yarn (the pattern won’t be thrown off as you just knit a tube, with a toe) and easy to replace if (or in my case, when) you wear a hole in the heel. Some people, especially with high insteps, find this style heel doesn’t fit them as well, however.
Short row heel: Similar in shape and fit to an afterthought heel, but not worked after the fact!
Further Reading/Pattern Suggestions
This is really just dipping our toes (har-har) into the huge world of sock knitting. As the year goes on, I’ll compile a little bibliography of Make Socks Mend Socks participants’ favorite sock knitting books/patterns/resources. But for now, here are a few things you might find helpful!
Tutorials
Whenever I’ve got a knitting question, my friend (and former boss!) Jen Arnall-Culliford is my first point of call. This page is a handy bringing together of all of her excellent sock-related tutorials!
Winwick Mum’s free Sockalong is beloved by many. She takes you step by step through knitting cuff down socks with a heel flap and gusset.
Patterns
If you’re interested in a cuff down sock with an afterthought heel, I can highly recommend Susan B. Anderson’s Smooth Operator Socks (Ravelry link). The pattern has detailed photo tutorials taking you through the afterthought heel method.
Tin Can Knits have a wonderful reputation for their beginner friendly patterns and tutorial support, so I imagine their Everyday Socks would also be a great jumping off point for a cuff down, heel flap and gusset sock!
I learned to knit toe up socks many years ago, and, as best I can remember, it was Wendy D. Johnson who showed me how with this book.
*I will keep updating this section with tried and true patterns recommendations as I come across them.*
And (not to toot my own horn!) I have a small collection of sock patterns published too! While none of them are 100% plain socks, they’d all be suitable for the confident beginner sock knitter. My Parkamoor Socks are knit from the cuff down, and the pattern includes options for a heel flap and gusset or afterthought heel. The Burgeon Socks include toe up and cuff down instructions and my Knapweed Socks are written from the toe up, with a short row heel :) If you’d like to give any of them a try, use code MSMS2024 for 10% off.